The Damascene Blog

Moving Notice

2005-10-06T06:39:00.000+02:00

The Damascene Blog has moved to

www.damasceneblog.com

Copyrights... again!

2005-09-20T00:47:00.000+03:00

OK this has not become a copyright-watch blog... My studies have been keeping me away from blogging recently, but this morning I was browsing the web for home news and I discovered that the popular pan-Arab news wbesite Alarabiya.net republished a picture from Damascus-Online.com in a news piece about Syria and did not give any credit for it! I was with Amr when we took this picture of Youssef Al-Azmeh Square from atop the Muhafaza Building a couple of years ago (Remember Amr?) It's good they did not crop the part that has my stamp on the lower right corner, though you will need a microscope to read it!

Update (20/9): I wrote to Alarabiya. They apologized and removed the picture from the article.

Update (26/9): They used the same picture again in another news article. What's wrong with these guys?!

Love...

2005-08-30T01:11:00.000+03:00

"Love knows not its own depth until the hour of separation"

(Engraved on the stairway leading to the Monastery of Mar Moussa)

Thanks to my fellow Syrian bloggers for a great evening yesterday.

Update: I just knew that this is a quote from Gibran Khalil Gibran's "The Prophet". I pasted above the original text instead of my translation.

Copyrights!

2005-08-26T18:22:00.000+03:00

Without acquiring authorization or giving credit, the English version of Layalina Magazine has copied and pasted a post from the Damascene Blog in its latest edition. The Magazine also republished the picture in that same post and did not bother to mention the source anywhere in the article that carried the signature of the Magazine's managing editor.

Empty Tomb

2005-08-21T00:19:00.000+03:00

The empty tomb of Algerian national hero Abul Qadir Al-Jazairi (1808-1883), leader of the famous rebellion against the French invasion of Algeria in the mid-19th century. After losing several battles against Abdul Qadir, the French had to bring more enforcements into the country and practiced a scorched-earth policy to terrorize the population. Abdul Qadir was forced to surrender in 1847 and was later exiled to France. He remained there until 1852 when he moved to Bursa, Turkey, and then to Damascus in 1855.

In Damascus, he devoted himself to teaching and writing, and quickly gained popularity and respect among Syrians. In 1860, when sectarian violence broke out in Damascus, he provided refuge for more than 15,000 Christians who escaped the fighting, and helped to bring back peace and calm. He died in 1883 and was buried in the Mosque of Ibn Arabi in Damascus.

The remains of Abdul Qadir were brought back to Algeria on July 5, 1966, four years after Algerian independence and 136 years after the French invasion of Algeria.

The Gorge

2005-08-11T15:25:00.000+03:00

Maaloula is a small mountainous village located 50 km to the north-east of Damascus. It is famous for being one of the very few places in the world where people still speak Aramaic, the language of Jesus Christ. One of the highlights of Maaloula is the Fajj (gorge), a split that cuts through the mountains of Maaloula forming a beautiful narrow corridor. It is believed that the fajj is related to the story of St. Thecla (Arabic Taqla), the first girl martyr in Christianity. After converting to Christianity, Thecla was prosecuted by her family and by the Roman authorities. She was being chased by Roman soldiers when she faced a huge mountain, a dead end with no chances for escape. She prayed to God to save her and her prayer was miraculously answered when the rocks were split, forming a narrow passage: The fajj. This is where the village probably derives its name from; the word Maaloula in Aramaic means 'entrance'.

Blogging Survey

2005-08-10T14:04:00.000+03:00

I got this from a friend:

I'm currently doing some research for my Masters about blogging in Lebanon, Syria and Jordan at the University of Westminster. I've just designed a questionnaire and would be grateful if you could fill it on (its for anyone of the above origins or living in these countries). It only takes about 8 minutes.

All your responses and any comments will be treated with the utmost confidentiality. The results of this research should be very exciting and, by the end of august, I will be sharing them with everyone. If you have questions at any time about the survey or the procedures, you may contact, myself, Maha Taki on +44(0)7916161035 or email me at the email mahataki(at)gmail.com.

Click Here to take the survey

Alley of Waterwheels

2005-08-03T12:08:00.000+03:00

The oldest and only surviving waterwheel in Damascus is in As-Salhieh district on the slopes of Mount Qassiyoun. This water-raising device dates back to the Ayubid era and was designed by Badi' Al-Zaman Al Jazari, the leading mechanical engineer of his times, who in 1206 wrote the famous "Book of Knowledge of Ingenious Mechanical Devices."

The waterwheel used to carry water from Yazid River to a 12-meter-high canal ending in the nearby Al-Bimaristan Al-Qaymari Hospital. It remained in use until the early 1970s. Many other waterwheels existed in the area, which is still known as Ziqaq Al-Nawa'ir (Alley of Waterwheels).

Update: My friend GottfriedStutz left some very informative comments about Al-Jazari.

Take Off!

2005-07-31T18:12:00.000+03:00

Oh Damascus, the summer is back again.
And my wings are, too.
My yearning to you cries out: "Take off!"
And the wind calls upon me.
The voices of my friends,
Her eyes,
And the promise of a possible tomorrow...
Everything I love
Has stolen sleep from my eyes
Then went to sleep.

From a song by Fairouz to the lyrics of Said Akel.

Suicidal Battle

2005-07-24T01:51:00.000+03:00

Translation:

Maysaloun Street: In memory of the Battle of Maysaloun, a suicidal battle fought on July 24th, 1920 to defend Damascus against French forces. Defense Minister Youssef Al-Azmah was martyred during the fighting.

Although he knew that his poorly-equipped army will be overwhelmed by the French, Youssef Al-Azmah, Defense Minister of then newly independent Syria, did not want Damascus to be an easy get for General Gouraud, so he led 4000 men to fight the French army at Maysaloun, 25 km to the west of Damascus. The battle lasted for a few hours, the Syrian army was defeated and Al-Azmah was killed. For Syrians, he became a symbol of courage, sacrifice and dignity.

Golden Flowing

2005-07-20T15:10:00.000+03:00

River Barada in Downtown Damascus.

Barada used to be known as the "artery of Damascus." It irrigated the oasis of Damascus, which largely consisted of the beautiful orchards of Al-Ghouta. In old times, the river was famed for its purity and crystal-clear water. The Greeks called it Chrysorrhoas: the golden flowing. There is even a biblical reference to this reputation: In the old Testament, when Naaman the Syrian was asked to wash in the Jordan, a muddy river, he complained saying:

"Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better than all the rivers of Israel?"

Abana is today's Barada, while Pharpar is probably either Al-Aa'waj river which also flows down Mount Hermon to Damascus, or Taura, a branch of Barada.

During the second half of the 20th century, Damascus quickly expanded. It's now home for almost 4 million people. The quick expansion of the city, the increasing consumption of water and the destruction of Ghouta by concrete residential blocks, resulted in the eventual death of Barada. The river that used to flood central Damascus every year is now almost completely dry in Summer. It flows at its highest level for a short time after the end of the rain- and snowfall season. This picture was taken in March.

Back to life!

2005-07-20T14:13:00.000+03:00

I'd like to thank you all for your kind comments and wishes. I did well in the exam al-hamdullillah. I will start blogging again very soon :)

Less Frequently

2005-06-07T01:17:00.000+03:00

I am getting more busy preparing for my exam. I will be posting less frequently.

Religion of Love

2005-05-27T02:06:00.000+03:00

A religious lesson at the Mosque of Ibn Al-Arabi in Salhieh, Damascus.

Muhyiddin Ibn Arabi (1165-1240) is one of the most famous Muslim philosophers. He was born in southern Spain and lived during the golden era of openness and tolerance in Arab-ruled Andalusia. He spent years traveling around the Arab world before finally settling in Damascus, where he completed his greatest book Al-Futuhat Al-Makkiyyah (Meccan Revelations), which is an encyclopedia of Sufism (Islamic mysticism) and Sufi teachings. He was buried in Damascus; and the Mosque, pictured above, was built in his honor by Ottoman Sultan Selim I in 1516.

Throughout his life, Ibn Arabi preached tolerance among all faiths. In one of his most famous poems, he considers his heart "a center of love":

O Marvel! a garden amidst the flames.
My heart has become capable of every form:
It is a pasture for gazelles and a convent for Christian monks,
and a temple for idols and the pilgrim's Kaa'ba,
and the tables of the Torah and the book of the Quran.
I follow the religion of Love:
Whatever way Love's camels take,
that's my religion and my faith.

Founding Father

2005-05-25T01:55:00.000+03:00

Rida Said Street leading to the Headquarters of Damascus University.

Rida Said (1876-1945) is one of the founders of Damascus University. He studied medicine in Turkey and served in the Turkish Army during the Balkan War. He was the mayor of Damascus in the hardship days of World War I, during which most schools and colleges in Damascus were closed. After the War, he lobbied for the revival of educational institutes in Damascus, and in 1919 he became the President of the newly established Syrian University, the first state-run university in the Arab World. He kept the position until 1936.

The pink building in the background, to the left of the University Headquarters, is that of the old National Hospital (dating back to 1899). A few years ago, it was renovated and turned into a conference center that also carries the name of Rida Said.

Spring Again?

2005-05-20T17:38:00.000+03:00

Shortly after President Bashar Al-Assad assumed power in the year 2000, Syria witnessed a period of relative freedom of expression, during which political forums where opened for an extensive public debate, and a newborn civil society movement started to push for reform and change. What had been known then as the "Damascus Spring" came to an end in early 2002, when the government closed down most forums and arrested many activists.

Now the country is living a similar atmosphere. Everybody is talking about the changes that are expected to take place after the upcoming Regional Congress of the ruling Baath Party in June. In newspapers, on satellite TV channels and on the web, Syrians are participating in a debate about the future of their country. Although the increasing freedom of expression is most clearly noted on the internet, you can also feel it on the street; people who seemed to have no interest in politics now boldly express their views on change and reform.

In Damascus, for the first time in years, there is hope in the air: ~~It will be spring again!~~

Update (24.5.2005): No. Not yet.

Picture: Barada River at Al-Jisr Al-Abyad

Green Meadows

2005-05-16T23:46:00.000+03:00

The old buildings of Damascus International Fair were raised to the ground after the opening of the new Fair Grounds off the Airport Highway. Fortunately, earlier rumors that the old Fair grounds will be invested by the influential businessman R. M. turned out to be false. It seems that the Governorate of Damascus has finally decided to turn the area into a public park, with cafes, restaurants, shops and other tourist facilities. The area will also regain its old historical name: Al-Marj Al-Akhdar (Green Meadows).

Al-Marj Al-Akhdar was a huge green space located outside walled Damascus. It was where the King of Germany camped with a huge Crusader army and besieged Damascus for four days before a failed attempt to capture the city in 1148. It was where Sultan Baybers built Al-Ablaq Palace in 1260. Damascenes used to go there for picnics; and for a period of time, they used to send their ill and dying animanls to spend their last days in a beautiful green environment. In the mid-1950s, the area became the Damascus International Fair Grounds. The Fair was annualy held there till 2003.

Now how long will it take to bring Al-Marj Al-Akhdar back to life again? The nearby 3-year-old mess in Omayyad Square makes everybody pessimistic!

Condolences

2005-05-13T18:52:00.000+03:00

In Damascene tradition, condolences are accepted separately by the men and the women of the family. In the case of the former, the family of the deceased sit in a row near the door to see all those coming and going, and every time a mourner comes in they stand up and welcome him, shaking his hand and then leading him to sit alongside the rest of the mourners, while the sheikh reads from the Quran. Every time a group of mourners comes, another group leaves. Passing the parents on the way out, they shake their heads exclaiming, "May God compensate you for your loss" to which the family members respond "God thank you for what you have done." They must accept condolences on three consecutive evenings.

As for the women relatives, one of them volunteers to get in touch with the closest of the female relatives, calling them to the deceased person's house to stand in the room in which they accept condolences, the 'asriyya. Thus, all the aunts, parents-in-law, nieces, sisters-in-law, daughters-in-law, and all the closest female relatives come to the house as soon as possible. The older women, of course, are the ones who actually stand in the 'asriyya accepting condolences. This act is one of showing how the deceased person stood with the relatives and the respect they owe him. Sometimes about ten women stand in the 'asriyya and at other times maybe even forty-five women, naturally depending on the deceased person's place in the hearts and minds of his friends and relatives.

Adopted from Siham Tergeman: Daughter of Damascus, English version by Andrea Rugh, Center for Middle Eastern Studies at the University of Texas at Austin, 1994.

Guided Tour

2005-05-11T17:39:00.000+03:00

The Friends of Damascus Society invites you to participate in a guided tour in Al-Salhieh neighborhood on Friday, May 13, 2005. The tour will start from Al-'Afeef Park (near the French Embassy) at 9.30 Friday morning, and will be guided by Architect Luna Rajab, President of the Society's City Protection Committee. The tour is free. Just be there tomorrow morning at 9.30.

Moroccan Battalion

2005-05-08T11:47:00.000+03:00

Few people know that official name for Sahat Al-Saba' Bahrat (Seven Fountain Square), a main square in central Damascus, is Al-Tajrida Al-Maghribiyyah (The Moroccan Battalion) Square. A battalion from the Moroccan army was sent to Syria in 1973 to participate in the war against Israel to liberate the occupied Golan Heights. The Moroccans took part in the fiercest battles of the war and lost many soldiers on the slopes of Mount Hermon. In 1974, Al-Saba' Bahrat was renamed in honor of their courageous stand.

May Rain

2005-05-04T13:09:00.000+03:00

A foggy, rainy and cold day in May, usually the first month of summer in Syria. Temperatures today reached a low 8°C as thunder rocked the city and heavy rain formed huge ponds in bumpy crumbling streets. This is the weirdest weather I have seen in years.

Happy Easter

2005-05-01T10:08:00.000+03:00

Orthodox Christians celebrate Easter today (while Catholics celebrated it on March 27). The difference is due to the use of two methods for calculating the date of Easter. Orthodox churches use the Julian Calendar, while Catholic and Protestant Churches use the Gregorian Calendar. There have been various attempts to reach a common date for Easter. In 1997, a meeting in Aleppo sponsored by the World Council of Churches and the Middle East Council of Churches and attended by various representatives of Eastern and Western Churches, issued what has been known as "The Aleppo Statement" which urged all churches to start celebrating Easter on a common date beginning in 2001. However, the suggestion was never implemented and the issue is still a matter of great concern, especially for Middle Eastern Christians, who believe it should be addressed seriously and urgently.

The picture above shows a new Church in a suburb of Damascus that stands as a wonderful symbol of unity among Syrian Christians. The Church of Saint Paul and Saint Peter in the suburb of Dummar is the first church to serve both Orthodox and Catholic communities. It was inaugurated last February by Beatitude Ignatius IV, Orthodox Patriarch of Antioch and All the East, and Gregorius III, the Melkite Catholic Patriarch. Will the event inspire church leaders to reach a common date of Easter?

Ottoman Mosque

2005-04-29T19:37:00.000+03:00

Before the Friday prayers at the entrance of Al-Darwishiyeh Mosque. The Mosque is named after Darwish Pasha, the Ottoman governor of Damascus who ordered its construction in 1574. Darwish Pasha governed Damascus between 1571 and 1574. He died in Istanbul in 1579 but was buried in the Mosque he built in Damascus.

Haunted By Her

2005-04-27T23:14:00.000+03:00

Oh Damascus, how can I describe the way I feel
When I am always haunted by you?

Forgive me if I did not reveal my passion to you
For the sweetest thing about love is concealing.

Nizar Qabbani (1923-1998)

In Remembrance

2005-04-24T18:36:00.000+03:00

Armenian Syrians today mark the 90th anniversary of the mass deportations and killings of Armenians in Ottoman Asia Minor in 1915. Hundreds of thousands of Armenians then sought refuge in Syria to escape the killings, famine and economic difficulties. Today, they constitute an integral part of the Syrian society. 75 percent live in the northern city of Aleppo and nearly 20 percent in Damascus. The rest are scattered in other Syrian cities and towns. Throughout the years, Syrian Armenians were able to maintain their traditions and customs, and to preserve their culture and language. Most belong to the Armenian Orthodox Church. The picture shows a memorial stone in the Armenian Church in Damascus:

"In Memory of Our Martyrs. 24 April 1915".

Addendum: Read about Aleppo's observance of the anniversary at Aleppo Post

The Lycée

2005-04-23T12:30:00.000+03:00

The Lycée Francais School was established in 1930 by the Mission Laique Francaise (French Laic Mission). Its beautiful building on Baghdad Street was designed by French architect Victor Erlanger. In 1967, the school was nationalized, along with other private schools in Damascus and was renamed Lycée Al-Houriet (Freedom). In 1994, it was renamed Lycée Bassel Al-Assad, but it's still known among Damascenes simply as Al-Laique.

Mercy Upon Mankind

2005-04-21T21:15:00.000+03:00

Muslims today celebrate Al-Mawlid Al-Nabawi, the birthday of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH). In Damascene traditions, which are less practiced today, Al-Mawild used to be a widely celebrated occasion. Neighborhoods would compete in organizing large 'arada processions; and mosques would be illuminated with colorful lanterns or lamps and filled with people who gather to listen to the story of Muhammad's birth and life, and to inshad (religious singing) in praise of the prophet, then go back home with small packs of white Mulabbas (almonds covered with sugar) which is especially made for the occasion.

This banner on a house in Muhajirin, opposite to Al-Murabit Mosque, carries a verse from the Holy Quran (21:107), summarizing the message that was delivered by Muhammad:

"We sent thee not, but as Mercy for all mankind"

Independence Day

2005-04-17T10:52:00.000+03:00

Our good hopes and heart beats
Surround the flag that unites the Nation
Does it not have the black color of every eye?
And the red color of every martyr's blood?

From the Syrian National Anthem
(Lyrics by Khalil Mardam Bey, Music by Flayfel Brothers)

Play . Save . Music Only . Lyrics (Ar)

Humble Home

2005-04-15T16:47:00.000+03:00

President Shukri Al-Quwatli (1892-1967), one of the heroes of Syrian independence, lived in this humble rented apartment in Al-Jisr Al-Abiyad neighborhood. Al-Quwatli was the most prominent leader of the National Bloc that led political resistance against the French mandate. He served as President in the periods 1943-1949 and 1955-1958, which were the golden years of Syrian democracy. Al-Quwatli left Syria after the military coup by Baath Party in 1963. He lived in Geneva then in Beirut until his death on June 30, 1967, only twenty days after Syria's disastrous defeat in the Six Day War and the loss of the Golan Heights to Israel.

Faroukh Shah

2005-04-13T11:38:00.000+03:00

Architect Luna Rajab, an active member of the Friends of Damascus Association, is supervising the renovation of Faroukh Shah Mosque, which is now inside the vicinity of the Four Seasons Hotel. The mosque is being renovated according to the highest standards and will still be in use after the Hotel opens, Rajab says. Faroukh Shah was the nephew of Saladin and the Emir of Baalbek (Lebanon) for a short period of time. He led many battles against the Crusaders and defeated the army of Baldwin IV, Latin King of Jerusalem, near Banyas (Western Syria) in 1179.

The Circumciser

2005-04-11T12:50:00.000+03:00

In Damascene tradition, a boy's circumcision used to be an important event attended by family and relatives who fill the house before the arrival of the "circumciser." Enthusiastic visitors shouting greetings and special 'arada songs would make it difficult for the crying poor boy to be heard. After the boy is officially circumcised, he would be proudly paraded in the neighborhood with a red tarboosh on his head and with him holding the white ghallabiyeh robe a few inches away at the front, so that to avoid any possible pain. Today the circumcision is no longer celebrated, as boys are usually circumcised at hospital during their first week of life. However, some people still prefer to do it at home with the help of a "circumciser," like this one announcing his services and cellphone number to passers-by.

Burial Place

2005-04-08T03:04:00.000+03:00

Outside the mosque and burial place of Abu Al-Darda' in the Citadel of Damascus. Abu Al-Darda' was a companion of Prophet Mohammad (PBUH) and one of the narrators of Hadith (sayings of the Prophet). After the Muslim conquest of Syria, he resided in Damascus and became the city's judge during the reign of Caliph Uthman Ibn 'Affan. He died in 653.

White & Pink

2005-04-06T11:35:00.000+03:00

The beautiful Ghazi Building, now occupied by the Directorate General of Archeology, was recently repainted in white and pink. Next to it is Fadlallah Al-Basrawi Mosque, that dates back to 1824 and the ugly "Damascus Tower" that was constructed in the mid-1980s.

Papal Prayer

2005-04-03T10:27:00.000+03:00

I remember when Pope John Paul II visited Syria in 2001. The Pope held a mass in Al-Abbasiyeen Stadium in Damascus and visited the Umayyad Mosque, becoming the first Catholic pontiff to enter a Muslim place of worship. In an address at the Mosque, in the presence of late Grand Mufti Sheikh Ahmad Kuftaro, the Pope said:

"For all the times that Muslims and Christians have offended one another, we need to seek forgiveness from the Almighty and to offer each other forgiveness [...] May the hearts of Christians and Muslims turn to one another with feelings of brotherhood and friendship, so that the Almighty may bless us with the peace which heaven alone can give. To the One, Merciful God be praise and glory for ever. Amen."

Later during his landmark visit, the Pope went to Quneitra, a town in the Golan Heights liberated from Israeli occupation in 1974. Standing in a small church that was burnt and ransacked by the Israelis, the Pope prayed for peace and justice in the Middle East:

"From this place, so disfigured by war, I wish to raise my heart and voice in prayer for peace in the Holy Land and in the world [...] Lord, you speak words of peace to your people and to all who turn to you in their hearts. We pray to you for the peoples of the Middle East. Help them to break down the walls of hostility and division and to build together a world of justice and solidarity [...] May they be inspired to oneness of heart and mind, in working for a world that will be a true home for all its peoples. Salam! Salam! Salam!"

Today the church is still deserted as it has been for 38 years, still waiting for the Pope's prayer to be answered... May his soul rest in peace.

Safe Cycling

2005-04-02T15:18:00.000+03:00

Some suggest that encouraging people to use bicycles in downtown Damascus will help reduce traffic jams and air pollution in the city. However, cycling in Damascus can be very dangerous, especially with the carelessness of motor-vehicle drivers, the weak enforcement of speed limits and other traffic rules, and the absence of special bicycle routes.

Lebanese Architect

2005-03-30T01:37:00.000+02:00

Al-Tajheez School was established in 1933 to replace Maktab 'Anbar as the main high-school in Damascus. It was later renamed after Jawdat Al-Hashimi (1887-1955), its founder and first director. The building was designed by the famous Lebanese architect Youssef Aftimos (1866-1952), who also architected the Beirut Municipality building and the clock tower at Beirut's Grand Serail.

Happy Easter

2005-03-27T02:35:00.000+02:00

The Convent of Our Lady of Seidnaya (located 27 km north of Damascus and dating back to 547) has an interesting story:

Justinian I, Emperor of Byzantium, came to this desert, where his army encamped and soon suffered thirst for lack of water. When they despaired, the emperor saw a beautiful gazelle off in the distance. He vigorously gave chase, hunting the animal until it tired and stopped on a rocky knoll and approached a spring of fresh water, but without giving the emperor the opportunity to shoot it. Suddenly, it transformed into an icon of Virgin Mary, which shone with a brilliant light. A white hand stretched forth from it and a voice said, "No, thou shalt not kill me, Justinian, but thou shalt build a church for me here on this hill." Upon his return, Justinian related what he had seen to his subordinates and ordered them immediately to draw up a plan for the contemplated church. After some time had passed and the architects were unable to resolve the problems of the plan, the Holy Virgin (the gazelle) reappeared to Justinian in a dream and confided a magnificent plan to him for a convent, of which she would be the Protectress. It is said that the basic structure of the convent follows this plan to this day. The convent soon gained such renown that it came to be ranked second only to Jerusalem as a place of pilgrimage, and nuns from every corner of Syria, Egypt, and other lands flocked to it. (Text from Saidnaya.com)

Earliest Worshipper

2005-03-25T15:38:00.000+02:00

A man waits for the Friday Prayer in the Siba'yah Mosque in Damascus. The Mosque and the Madrassa (religious school) annexed to it are named after Memluk Emir Sibay, who built them in 1515.

The Eagle

2005-03-24T00:26:00.000+02:00

The Syrian national emblem is a reproduction of the Eagle of Saladin. This mediveal Arab hero used a golden eagle as his coat of arms and had it painted on the flags his armies carried during many victorious battles. Other Arab countries have also adopted an Eagle as their emblem, including Egypt, Libya, Palestine and Iraq. This giant eagle is engraved on the wall of the Telecommunications Building in Saadallah Al-Jabiri Street. The shield in the center carries the three stars of the old Syrian flag and the inscription on the ribbon reads "Syrian Republic." This is a bit different from the current coat of arms which has two stars (since 1982) and the words "Syrian Arab Republic" on the ribbon (since 1961).

Oh-My-God Square

2005-03-22T01:52:00.000+02:00

Omayyad Square has been closed to traffic for 4 days now, while construction works are accelerated in the hope of ending a long nightmare for Damascene drivers. It's been three years since the central Omayyad Square was turned into a mess for the sake of a 300-meter-long tunnel that connects Al-Mazzeh and Shukri Al-Quwatli streets. During that period, what used to be Damascus' most beautiful square has been filled with huge construction vehicles, confused traffic police and cars trying to avoid endless holes and humps. Al-Iqtisad Magazine commented: "O-My-God Square" may be a better name.

Mother's Day

2005-03-21T16:28:00.000+02:00

It's a bouquet of flowers and kel seneh wintee salmeh, Mama. "May every year bring you good health, mother" before planting a kiss on her hand and gently touching it to the forehead, as a sign of respect and gratitude. It's resting for moments in her warm embrace and feeling this familiar sweet scent. It's listening to Fayzeh Ahmad's "Sitt Al-Habayeb" (the beloved of all beloved) being repeated on radio all day long, and choking with tears when Fairouz sings:

My mother, my angel,
My everlasting love...
Your arms are still my swing,
And I am still a child.

Stone By Stone

2005-03-18T00:07:00.000+02:00

The facade of Al-Hayr Al-Gharbi Palace is one of the most impressive features of the National Museum of Damascus. The palace originally stood 60 km southwest of the ancient city of Palmyra, in the heart of the Syrian desert. It was built by the Omayyad Caliph Hisham Ibn Abdel-Malik in 728 at the crossroads of trade routes connecting Damascus, Baghdad and Arabia. In 1939, the Palace's facade was brought to Damascus and reconstructed, stone by stone, at the entrance of the National Museum. It is one of the rare examples of Persian and Byzantine influences on early Omayyad architecture.

Beit Baroudi

2005-03-16T01:08:00.000+02:00

This is where Fakhri Al-Baroudi lived. His house, which is one of the most beautiful in Al-Qanawat neighborhood, is currently being renovated by students of the Damascus University Faculty of Architecture. Al-Baroudi (1887-1966), as well as being a journalist, a politician and an army officer, was known in Syria as the "leader of youth" because he supported and sponsored many youth groups, including boy scouts and several musical bands. He is the author of the famous patriotic song "Bilad Al-'Ourb Awatani" (The Land of Arabs is My Homeland). Today, unfortunately, the words he wrote sound more like a bad joke:

The land of Arabs is my homeland
From Damascus to Baghdad
And from Najd to Yemen
To Egypt and Tatwan*

For no border separates us
And no religion divides us.
Our mother tongue unites us
With Ghassan and Adnan**

* Tatwan is a city in Morocco. ** Ghassan and Adnan are names of ancient Arab tribes. Click here to download the song and here to read the lyrics in Arabic.

Festival of Colors

2005-03-14T00:11:00.000+02:00

Chinese toys, Syrian-made lipstick, cheap sunglasses, hairdryers, umbrellas, brooms and pens, all make a beautiful festival of colors in a small alleyway near Bab Al-Jabieh.

Side By Side

2005-03-11T13:28:00.000+02:00

Walking along the Eastern Wall of the Umayyad Mosque before the Friday Prayer.

The Umayyad Mosque stands on a site that has been previously occupied by an Aramaean temple of Hadad, a Roman Temple of Jupiter and finally a church dedicated to St. John the Baptist. When Muslim armies entered Damascus, they established a mosque in the east side of the temple, leaving the Church intact. For more than seventy years, Muslims and Christians prayed side by side inside the walls of the Temple. They used the same main gate as an entrance; Muslims prayed on the east side and Christians prayed on the west side. In 705, the Caliph of Damascus, now the capital of the world's largest empire, wanted to build a huge new mosque and asked Christian leaders to cede their share of the land to him. After long negotiations, the Christians accepted the Caliph's offer to compensate them with four new churches; among them is the famous Mariamiyyah Church (Church of Mary) in Bab Sharqi.

Rally Day

2005-03-09T20:22:00.000+02:00

Tens of thousands today crowded al-Mazzeh and 'Adnan al-Malki streets up to the Presidential Office in Rawda to show support for President Assad against the mounting US-pressures. It was noted that unlike previous similar events, the Syrian flag dominated the rally and there were very few Baath Party flags (was this a good effect of the Beirut protests during which only the Lebanese flag was raised?) It was also noted that some people carried small placards saying: "Yes to reform and democracy in Syria" and calling for "Reform.. Democracy... Now!" but adding: "Support Our leader and Make a Better Syria" and "Mr Bush: We Need Our Democracy... Not Yours."

Every Living Thing

2005-03-08T00:29:00.000+02:00

Clean drinking water from Ein al-Fijeh spring was first introduced into Damascus by Governor Hussein Nazem Pasha in 1906. The Committee of Ein Al-Fijeh Water, which was established by politician and national leader Loutfi al-Haffar , started in 1922 to lay infrastructure to deliver drinking water to all Damascus. The project was completed in 1932. The Committee's headquarters in An-Nassr Street occupy a beautiful building that was erected in 1942 and decorated by the beautiful artwork of Mohamad Ali Khayat and calligraphy of Mohamad Badawi Al-Dirani. The script on the top is a verse from the Holy Quran:

"And we made from water every living thing"

Young Country

2005-03-06T22:38:00.000+02:00

Children playing in al-Menshieh Park overlooking Shukri al-Quwatli Street. Syria has a very young population. About 46% of Syrians are under the age of 15 and nearly 60% are under 20.

Pulling Out

2005-03-05T23:44:00.000+02:00

President Bashar Al-Assad addressed the Parliament today about the Lebanese crisis. Assad announced a plan to withdraw Syrian troops to Bekaa valley, as a step towards full withdrawal. When this withdrawal is completed, Assad said, Syria would have fulfilled its obligations under the Taif agreement and UN Security Council resolution 1559. Will this be enough to stop the barking of Bush and others? I don't think so.

Laying Mats

2005-03-04T15:10:00.000+02:00

Laying mats in preparation for the Friday prayers in Mohamad al-Talawi Mosque in Qanawat. Before entering a mosque, Muslims take their shoes off, out of respect to the house of God.

Cleaning Action

2005-03-03T14:06:00.000+02:00

Al-Abed Building is one of the finest examples of early 20th century architecture in Damascus. It was constructed in 1910 by the Spanish architect Fernando de Aranda (1878-1969), who is thought to be the same architect who designed the Hijaz Railway Station. For decades, the building has been victim to the dirtiness and pollution of downtown Damascus. Now it seems to be undergoing a long-waited cleaning action.

Her Sons

2005-03-02T12:22:00.000+02:00

"Those who want to get with the latest US program must put the blame on Syria. What for? Doesn't matter in the least. Whether it is for the two world wars, the demise of Elvis or sinking the Titanic, Syria makes a handy and eminently fashionable punching bag..."

-- Linda Heard in Arab News

"...This is the reality we must deal with. It's not important to approve or refuse accusations against us. We must read what's behind them; and what's behind them is now obvious: The beginning of an attack against Syria. Maybe we had a lot of differences in the past, maybe we will have lots in the future (...) But Syria will remain our great love. Syria will remain the dream that unites us (...) Let's love Syria, pray for her, defend her. Today Syria needs all her sons, needs us to be her sons, just her sons."

-- Nidal Maalouf in Syria News (translated)

Aleppan Wisdom

2005-02-28T23:55:00.000+02:00

Words of wisdom on the show window of a souvenir shop in Aleppo:
"A civilized person only spits in his handkerchief! Cleanliness is part of faith."

Hotel Controversy

2005-02-26T19:54:00.000+02:00

It was announced today that construction works of the Four Seasons Hotel have been completed and that the Hotel will officially open next summer. There has been a lot of controversy in Damascus about the Hotel, which is 65% owned by the Saudi Billionaire Al-Walid Bin Talal, 17% by the Governorate of Damascus and 17% by the Ministry of Tourism:

( - ) Many feel that the building's design does not fit the area. Towering in Shukri Al-Quwatli Street and overlooking Barada River and the historic Tekiyyeh Mosque, the huge block of glass and marble now dominates the skyline of central Damascus. Some have complained about the fact that the hotel consumed a large part of Al-Menshieh Park and surrounded the eight-century-old dome covering the tomb of Faroukh Shah, the nephew of Saladin.

( + ) This is going to be the largest hotel in Syria and the first five-star hotel to be opened in Damascus in nearly 2 decades. In addition, the new Hotel occupies an advantageous "strategic" site in the heart of Damascus. It will boost the tourist industry in the country and create an atmosphere of competition that will result in better tourist services. The building looks great, especially when lit at night; it gives a touch of modernity to the center of the nation's capital, the home to an estimated 5 million people.

Damascene Breakfast

2005-02-25T00:29:00.000+02:00

A no-longer-new trend in Damascus is opening restaurants and cafes in restored traditional Damascene houses of the Old City. As well as making good money for investors, this helped to preserve many beautiful houses that were neglected for a long time and to breathe life back into the Old City. An example is Beit Jabri, an 18th-century house with 23 rooms that was turned into a restaurant in 1996. On Friday mornings, Beit Jabri is crowded with people who gather for a traditional Damascene breakfast of fatteh or tess'iyeh: A mixture of broken pieces of toasted pita bread and chickpeas, covered with a special sauce made of yogurt and tahini (sesame seeds paste) and served in two types: with olive oil or with samneh (ghee).

Tram-why?

2005-02-24T10:05:00.000+02:00

One of the last surviving pieces of the tramway rails that were laid in Damascus in 1907. It was the year when electricity was first introduced into the city by a Belgian-Turkish company and the tramway (pronounced in Damascus as tram-why) began to compete with carts as the main method of transportation. By 1931, the tramway had a network of 6 lines: Al-Midan, Al-Jisr Al-Abyad, Sheikh Muheddine, Muhajireen, Kassa' and Douma. The picture shows where the tramway used to turn right, after an exhausting day of carrying hundreds of people, to be parked inside the complex of the Electricity Company in Al-Mutanabbi Street. The last tramway to make this journey ran on these rails in 1961.

With the substitute now being the air-polluting, chaos-producing, uncomfortable micro-buses, many people in Damascus yearn for the tramway days and tell their children (or grandchildren) nostalgic stories about the jabee or commissiari and his wooden ticket box, the 7.5 eresh (Piastre = 1/100 Syrian Pound) they used to pay for the first class ride and the 5 they used to pay for the second class one.

Two Peoples

2005-02-22T11:25:00.000+02:00

Lebanese daily Assafir wrote:

"For the past couple of days, the Syrian-Lebanese border has been witnessing one-way traffic. Thousands of Syrian workers 'fled' to their country, fearing strong Lebanese feelings against them on the background of the assassination of ex-prime minister Rafik Al-Hariri. Although racism against Syrian workers has always been there, it did not make up the whole scene like it does now [...] A quick visit to the Syrian-Lebanese border last Friday and Saturday is enough to draw a sad picture of how recent developments have affected relations between the two peoples"

To the people in the Lebanese media and opposition who are fueling hatred against Syria; to all the narrow-minded people who are insulting Syria, the country and the people, in the streets of Beirut: Picturing Syrian people as an enemy will only harm your cause and make you lose the sympathy and support of many Syrians. Even after the Syrian army withdraws, Syria will remain on Lebanon's doorstep, your neighbor till the end of time. Don't let filthy politics separate the two peoples. Don't cut new wounds that can take a long time to heal.

Picture: Syrian-Lebanese border at Jdaideh.

Never Repaired

2005-02-20T13:20:00.000+02:00

The Hijaz Station was erected in 1908 after the construction of the Hijaz Railway that connected Damascus to Mecca and made Muslim pilgrimage easier than ever before. The railway was used to supply Turkish armies during World War I so it was subject to destructive attacks by Arab rebels aided by Lawrence of Arabia in 1916. Although parts of it remained intact and still connect Syria and Jordan, the railway to Mecca (now in Saudi Arabia) was severely damaged during the Arab Revolt and was never reconstructed.

Spell Check

2005-02-19T09:49:00.000+02:00

Although setup in an area of Damascus crowded with offices of sworn translators, the government-owned Real Estate Bank did not bother to hire somebody to check the spelling on this elegant signboard announcing its new ATM "serves".

Black Banner

2005-02-17T16:58:00.000+02:00

During this period of the Islamic year, Shiite Muslims celebrate 'Ashura, the anniversary of Imam Hussein's death in the battle of Karbala against the army of Yazid, the Umayyad Caliph of Damascus in the year 680. 'Ashura, the 10th of the Islamic month of Muharram, is the peak of 10 days of commemorative events that start on the 1st of Muharram. Black banners in praise of Hussein have been put up in Al-Ameen neighborhood of Old Damascus. This one reads:

"Hassan and Hussein are the leaders of the youth of Paradise"

Lebanese Shrapnel

2005-02-16T14:20:00.000+02:00

Main headline of Asharq Al-Awsat:"Hariri's Assasination: Shrapnel Hits Syria"

Gloomy weather in Damascus today. Nervousness is in the air. People woke up to listen to thousands swearing at Syria during Hariri's funeral. Yesterday Syrian workers were attacked in Sidon and a Syrian truck was set on fire. One mourner told Reuters: "I want to kill someone today -- a Syrian."

It's sadly funny how masses can easily be used as a mere plaything in a big dirty political game. Funny how a lie is repeated over and over until it becomes a common belief that nobody can/dares challenge.

With the US and Syria seemingly heading towards confrontation, many Syrians feel like the Iraqi scenario is being repeated. Did Syria kill Hariri? Find the answer here: Did Iraq really have weapons of mass destruction?

Valentine's Events

2005-02-14T16:56:00.000+02:00

Be it cultural invasion, shallow commercialization of love or genuine celebration of it, Valentine's Day was "observed" in Damascus with flower and gift shops decorated in red and prices of red roses doubling several times. The day was spoiled by the news about the horrible explosion that killed ex-Lebanese prime minister Rafik al-Hariri in Beirut. Around noon, everybody was rushing back home to call friends and relatives in Beirut and to watch scenes of destruction in Beirut's beautiful Cornische, an area many Syrians know very well. May Allah bless Lebanon and spare it (and Syria) the consequences.

Rush Hour

2005-02-12T02:36:00.000+02:00

Rush hour in downtown Damascus, dominated by yellow cabs from different eras: 1983 Mitsubishi Lancer, Mid-1990s Daewoo Cielo and late-1990s Daewoo Matiz, newer but cheaper Skoda-Lada, Dacia and Turkish-made Sahin. Try to recognize the typical 1980s white Peugeot 504 with black curtains (the driver is probably a young army conscript and the owner is a low-ranking army officer) and the white Mercedes Benz E300 with a special number plate (high-ranking officer). The scene is not complete without the small white Suzuki carry pick-up, commonly known in Syria as Tertayra because of the "terrr.. terrr" sound it produces.

Selfishness-Ugliness

2005-02-10T14:39:00.000+02:00

With no efforts made to enforce laws that do not permit people to selfishly damage the appearance of the buildings they share with others, this mess of a building is not an uncommon sight in Damascus.

On the Go

2005-02-09T15:51:00.000+02:00

Before you go for a walk around Jahez Park or in the busy streets of Sha'lan, spare 10 Syrian Pounds to buy roasted peaunts wrapped in old newspaper. Delicious!

Damascus Bride

2005-02-08T01:05:00.000+02:00

The Minaret of the Bride is the oldest and most beautiful minaret of the Umayyad Mosque. According to a 17th century historian, its name is attributed to the daughter of a Damascene merchant who was asked by the King to provide lead, a scarce material at this time, to cover the roof of the minaret. The merchant's daughter would not give him the material before he paid her the weight of the lead in silver, which he eventually did. Convinced that he was a man of his word, she donated the lead for free and agreed to marry the king. The minaret was thereafter given the title of the woman who provided the leaden covering: Al-Arous - The Bride.

Modern Landscape

2005-02-06T01:18:00.000+02:00

Modern Damascus: In the foreground is Tishreen Park, the largest and most visited in Damascus; in the background is Al-Mazzeh neighborhood with some of its landmarks: Al-Assad University Hospital, the Faculty of Medicine, the Faculty of Pharmacy and Damascus University dormitories. Also in the background on the far left is the still-under-construction building of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Kafarsousseh.

Foggy Scene

2005-02-03T14:27:00.000+02:00

Mount Qassyoun and the blinking red light of its giant TV transmission tower disappeared behind thick fog that fell over Damascus today. The picture was shot in Abu Rummaneh Street near Rawdah Square.

Damascene Disciple

2005-02-02T01:42:00.000+02:00

Now there was a disciple at Damascus named Ananias. The Lord said to him in a vision, "Ananias." And he said, "Here I am, Lord." And the Lord said to him, "Rise and go to the street called Straight, and inquire in the house of Judas for a man of Tarsus named Saul; for behold, he is praying, and he has seen a man named Ananias come in and lay his hands on him so that he might regain his sight. -- (The Bible, Acts 9:10-12)

Picture: The House of Ananias (Arabic Hanania) is located in Bab Sharqi, and now hosts a small chapel.

Little Istanbul

2005-02-01T11:27:00.000+02:00

Souk Saroujah was the first neighborhood in Damascus to be built outside the city walls in the 13th century. Known as Damascus's "Little Istanbul," Sarouja contains some perfect examples of traditional Damascene architecture, including houses, mosques and baths. The neighborhood had to struggle against the merciless invasion of steel and concrete, and had already lost some battles when the Governorate of Damascus decided to declare it as a protected historical site and started to "think", along with the Ministry of Tourism, about renovating the ailing buildings and opening the area up to tourists.

Martyrs Square

2005-01-30T17:59:00.000+02:00

The bronze colonnade in Marjeh square was erected in 1907 to commemorate the opening of the first telegraphic link in the Middle East - the line between Damascus and Medina (now in Saudi Arabia). On this spot, on May 6, 1916, Ottoman authorities hanged tens of Arab national leaders who called for independence from Turkey. Since then, Marjeh Square has been known as Sahet al-Shuhadaa - Martyrs' Square. The plate on the base of the colonnade is in Turkish, which used to be written in Arabic script until Kemal Ataturk ordered a change to a modified Latin alphabet in 1928.

What a Night

2005-01-27T02:44:00.000+02:00

Just before the wedding party, friends and relatives of the bridegroom gather in his house for the talbeeseh party, when the 'arees (bridegroom) is dressed up for the big event while his friends cheerfully chant along with the traditional 'arada group:

Shennekleileh... Shennekleileh

Shoo hal leileh... Shoo hal leileh
(What a night... What a night!)

Men hal leileh hamal al salleh
(From this night on he'll carry the basket)

Men hal leileh sarlo 'eileh
(From this night on he'll have a family)

Allah ye'ino 'ala hal leileh
(May God help him this night!)

No Toilet

2005-01-26T03:02:00.000+02:00

Tired of visitors who came in with intentions other than praying, the Imam of this Old Damascus mosque had to declare:

"Please... There is no toilet in the mosque!"

Going Down

2005-01-25T05:37:00.000+02:00

Going down to Damascus from Mount Qassiyoun. Not many cars there on that snowy day, but on a summer Thursday or Friday night, there would be bumper-to-bumper traffic as people drive up to spend the weekend in the mountain towns of Bloudan and Zabadani, or just to have a picnic in the open space around the Unknown Soldier's monument.

Did She?

2005-01-23T07:15:00.000+02:00

She became the ruler of a small Roman colony in the Syrian desert and wanted to turn it into an empire. Zenobia, the Arab queen of Palmyra, declared independence from Rome and defied that third-century superpower. She won battle after a battle, united Syria under her rule, invaded Asia Minor and reached the frontiers of Egypt. Her glory was not to last, though. The Romans marched in great armies, defeated the Palmyrans at Antioch, conquered Palmyra and left it in ruins, taking the Lady of Victory into captivity. But what happened to Zenobia after her capture remains a mystery: Was she really made to walk in the Emperor's Triumph in Rome, chained and humiliated? Or did she, as some historians claim, committ suicide before that? I hope she did.

* Picture: Zenobia on the 500 Syrian Pounds note.

As If...

2005-01-22T04:39:00.000+02:00

It has been two years, Mother,
And the night of Damascus,
The jasmine of Damascus,
The houses of Damascus
Still inhabit our minds.
As if the Omayyad minarets
Are planted in our hearts.
As if the apple orchards
Are perfuming our conscience.
As if the lights and the stones
Have all traveled with us.

Nizar Qabbani 1923-1998
("Unofficial" translation)

Blessings Spread

2005-01-21T02:45:00.000+02:00

After silently reciting Al-Fatiha (the first surah of the Quran), a Muslim wipes face with both palms, as a gesture of spreading blessings received by reading Allah's words.

May Allah's blessings spread all over earth this Eid. Happy Eid for you all.

* Pictures: Sitt Raqiyyeh Mosque, Damascus.

Standing Day

2005-01-19T14:23:00.000+02:00

The day just before Eid is called al-Waqfeh (standing day) because on this day, in Mecca, pilgrims will be standing on Mount Arafat till sunset. Arab TV stations bring live coverage of the event, and people sit behind their TV screens to watch hundreds of thousands of men and women, dressed in white terrycloth that represents equality among pilgrims, while they invade those hilltops near Mecca and gradually turn their color from sandy brown to pure white.

* Picture: The Omayyad Mosque, Damascus.

Winter Recipe

2005-01-18T02:52:00.000+02:00

The greatest warm-up in the bone-chilling cold: Fool Nabet - Hot black-eyed beans garnished with a lemon squeeze and a sprinkle of sour cumin. Tip: Before you start eating, grab the bowl with both hands while the warm vapors bring the fool/foul smell to your nostrils. Nothing can make you feel warmer.

The Challenge

2005-01-16T09:44:00.000+02:00

Saladin, the legendary Muslim hero who defeated the Crusaders and liberated Jerusalem in the mid-12th century, is buried in Damascus, few meters away from the Great Omayyad Mosque.

It is said that when the French army under General Henri Gouraud occupied Damascus in July 1920, Gouraud walked up to Saladin's tomb and exclaimed, "Awake, Saladin! We have returned!"

To this day, Arabs are still waiting for Saladin to live up to the challenge.

Rooftop Mess

2005-01-13T03:29:00.000+02:00

Typical rooftops of Damascus residential buildings: A mess of hanging wires and cables, water-storage tanks, air-conditioners, solar power panels, TV antennas and herds of satellite dishes, most of them looking towards Arabsat.

History Mosaic

2005-01-12T05:49:00.000+02:00

A mosaic of history:

1. Archs of the Temple of Jupiter - Roman, 3rd century BC
2. Walls of the Mosque - Omayyad, 8th century AD
3. Western Minaret - Memluk, 15th century AD
4. Souk al-Hamidieh - Ottoman, 18th century AD
5. People - Syrian, 21st century AD

Ceta-Mall

2005-01-11T01:49:00.000+02:00

City Mall is the only western-style shopping mall in Damascus (two others were opened outside the city in Sabboura and on Daraa Highway). For reasons that are not well understood, it is known among taxi drivers as "Cetamol" (pronounced seetah-mol) which is the Syrian brand name for the pain killer Panadol/Tylenol.

Green Booster

2005-01-09T18:40:00.000+02:00

On sale on a downtown Damascus pavement: "Zallouh Root: Sexual booster, general booster, for diabetes, nerve problems and back pain"

Zallouh is made from the root of the herb Ferula Hermonis, which grows at the height of 2000 meters above sea level on Mount Hermon between Syria and Lebanon. It has been used as an aphrodisiac since ancient times, and it is a well known folk remedy in some parts of Syria and Lebanon. It's chemical powers and benefits were studied and confirmed by doctors and scientists a few years ago, and the word spread worldwide. It was described by CNN in 1998 as the "Lebanese Viagra."

Those Alleyways

2005-01-08T07:44:00.000+02:00

In those alleyways... How many treasures did I hide?
And how many childhood memories did I leave?

On their walls... How many pictures did I draw?
And on their stair-steps... How many toys did I break?

Oh Damascus, my wounds have no banks,
So wipe my sorrow off my brow.

-- Nizar Qabbani 1923-1998
("unofficial" translation)

The Pencils

2005-01-06T07:03:00.000+02:00

When the Ottoman Turks occupied Syria in 1516, Sultan Selim I ordered the construction of al-Tekiyyeh Mosque on the banks of Barada River in Damascus. The people of Damascus did not like the typical Turkish style of the Mosque. Its pencil-shaped minarets looked weird, and people saw them as a symbol of Turkish domination, which they didn't expect to last for long. However, many other pencils were later constructed in Damascus, and the Ottomans stayed for 400 years.

Nofara Sounds

2005-01-04T05:12:00.000+02:00

Al-Nofara. This small cafe, just outside the walls of the Omayyad Mosque, is the most famous in Old Damascus. Al-Nofara is always bustling with customers, usually men, who create a lively mixture of sounds: Loud laughter, rolling of dice on wooden backgammon boards and occasional periods of silence interrupted by a long sip from a tea cup or the bubbling of an argileh (waterpipe), then ended with a shout: "Narah ya walad!" (bring me some coal, boy!)

New Hope

2004-12-31T20:01:00.000+02:00

New year. New hope.

No poverty. No unemployment. No corruption. No prisons. No injustice. No intervention from outside. No micro-buses. No pollution. No immigration. No loss of national pride.

No occupied land. No besieged people. No killings. No refugees. No uprooting of olive trees. No burning of palm trees. No lies. No brainwashing. No threats from superpowers. No superpowers.

No Arab disputes. No visas. No long lines on borders. No borders. No blind nationalism. No cultural invasion. No English replacing Arabic. No cheap culture. No Haifaa. No Ruby. No immorality. No religious intolerance. No religious fanaticism. No bashing of Islam.

No Tsunamis.

No 2004 again. Have a Happy New Year.

Snowing Peace

2004-12-23T22:22:00.000+02:00

Missing this Christmas:

1. Arabic Christmas carols by the wonderful Fairouz, especially Laylet Eid (Christmas Night- the Arabic version of "Jingle Bells") and Najmet al Eid (Star of Christmas- the Arabic version of "Angels We Have Heard on High"):

Ya sama tetloj ash'aar oo salaam
"Oh the sky is snowing poems and peace!"

2. Walking/driving around the beautifully decorated Al-Qassaa' neighbourhood while people walk to the churches for the midnight mass.

* Picture: Al-Zaitoun (Olive) Church, one of the oldest in Damascus.

Not Home

2004-12-01T23:50:00.000+02:00

Away from Damascus. Already feeling homesick. No blogging for a while.

Revolution Street

2004-11-19T13:22:00.000+02:00

Thawra (Revolution) Street is that pollution-stricken street in downtown Damascus, with a ceramic-walled tunnel and dull concrete buildings, the ugliest being a beige 19-storey tower. It is named after the "March Revolution," the coup that brought Baath Party to power in 1963.

Going West

2004-11-17T02:26:00.000+02:00

Many Syrians spent their Eid vacation in Lebanon. Beirut, only 90 km west of Damascus, is a favorite destination for Damascenes. In the picture, Syrian taxi cars are waiting to cross the Lebanese border.

Until Then

2004-11-15T13:33:00.000+02:00

Egyptian poet Ahmad Shawqi (1868-1932), known in the Arab World as the 'Prince of Poets,' wrote:

My homeland, I pity you when comes Eid festivity
And I cry, passionately and remorsefully

I will have no Eid until I see you
A nation that is glorious and morally superior

New Tradition

2004-11-13T22:10:00.000+02:00

Palm trees in 'Adnan al-Malki street are decorated with lights as Damascus prepares to celebrate Eid el-Fitr which starts tomorrow.

Christmas-like decorations for Ramadan and Eid are the latest trend in Damascus. The new tradition is spreading rapidly as more people decorate their windows and balconies with strings of light bulbs and colourful illuminating stars and crescents.

Street Talk

2004-11-12T23:05:00.000+02:00

In Syria, Arafat was considered a traitor when he signed peace accords with Israel in 1993, but he gained some sympathy after he became an enemy of Israel again and was besieged by the Israelis in his headquarters in Ramallah almost three years ago. However, the fact that Israel and the US wanted to get rid of him, the extent of Palestinian grief, and the TV biographies that reminded us of his previous image as a young guerilla leader who won the hearts of Arabs during the late 1960s and 1970s, all this made most people here watch his funeral in sorrow. I feel sorry he died before seeing an independent Palestine.

No moon sighted tonight. One more day of fasting.

Flooded Street

2004-11-11T13:06:00.000+02:00

It rained for no more than 30 minutes on November 9, but heavily enough to flood some Damascus streets.

Thousand Months

2004-11-09T23:30:00.000+02:00

"We have indeed revealed this message in the Night of Power. And what will explain to thee what the Night of Power is? The Night of Power is better than a thousand months. Therein come down the angels and the spirit by God's permission, on every errand: Peace! This until the rise of morn." The Quran (97:1-5)

Damascus mosques are full of worshippers who will spend the whole night praying till the early morning hours. Laylat al-Qadr, or Night of Power, is the holiest night of the holiest month. On Laylat al-Qadr, the Quran was revealed to Mohammad (PBUH). For Muslims, it is a time when the gates of heaven are open and prayers are all answered. Blessed be your night.

* Picture was taken inside the Omayyad Mosque; on the left is the shrine of Prophet Yahia (St. John the Baptist).

Haircut Bliss

2004-11-08T23:48:00.000+02:00

I don't think I can find a precise translation of the Arabic word na'iman. It is what you say to someone after he/she had a new haircut, a shower or a bath. I don't actually think that other languages have special expressions to greet people coming out of the barbershop or the bathroom! Anyway... Na'im in Arabic is comfort or bliss, but the expression na'iman probably means something like "may it be a bliss for you". The response (of the one with the new haircut) would be: "Allah yen'am 'alek" - "May God bestow bliss upon you".

Two Offers

2004-11-07T23:55:00.000+02:00

Two offers from downtown Damascus:

"Magnifying medical glasses for reading and writing, different measures, original rassors and joints, with a free leather glasses bag and a cleaning tissue. Only for 100 Syrian Pounds."

"Telephone with caller ID, time display, key, and other features, plus a free phone plug: 425 Syrian Pounds."

Latest currency quotes

Heavenly Light

2004-11-06T23:26:00.000+02:00

"While Paul was on his way to Damascus to arrest Christians, he was knocked off his horse, struck blind by a heavenly light"

Here goes the whole story: Paul, whose original name was Saul, was sent by the Jews of Palestine to hunt for Christians in Damascus and bring them back to prison in Jerusalem. On his way to Damascus, he was struck by that heavenly light which left him blind. He then heard the voice of Jesus asking him why he was going to prosecute his followers. Saul managed to get to Damascus with the help of his companions. After three days, a Damascene believer called Ananias, had a vision in which the Lord told him to go to a house in the Street Called Straight (today's Souk Medhat Pasha) to meet a man called Saul. Ananias went there, laid his hands on Saul and his sight was restored. Saul converted to Christianity and began to preach in the synagogues of Damascus. Jews plotted to kill him, but he was smuggled safely out of Damascus in a basket that was lowered from above the city walls (at the site of today's Bab Kisan). Saul later carried the name Paul and traveled to Europe to spread Christianity there.

The illustration above is displayed in the House of Ananias, which today hosts a small chapel.